Documents

Document	Morocco	Mauritania (RIM)	Mali
Passport	ü	ü	ü
Visa	û	Purchase at border. €20, no photo or other papers.	Must obtain before entry. In Europe from Mali Embassy in Brussels, but takes days. Best, cheapest, simplest, quickest option is Mali Embassy in Nouakchott. €30, plus form to complete, two passport photographs and copy of passport (two pages). Takes 20 minutes (see itinerary for location).
Inoculation certificate	û	û	Yellow fever mandatory. We were never asked for it, but who would go without the jabs anyway?
Fiche	ü probably the most useful bit of paper in saving time at check points. Mainly in Southern Morocco and Western Sahara.	ü probably the most useful bit of paper in saving time at check points. In theory, I think you are meant to register with police where you stay overnight but we only did this in Oualata and no-one ever complained, they just ask where you are coming from and going to.	ü although we were rarely asked for it and we could have just spent half an hour writing it all down on a scrap of paper.
Photographs	û	û	ü for visa you need two passport photos; we used computer printout so no issue about image quality!!
Photocopies of documents	û not required, but not a bad idea in case you lose originals or in case you don't want to hand over originals to officials!	û not required, but not a bad idea in case you lose originals or in case you don't want to hand over originals to officials!	ü for visa you need a copy of the passport pages containing personal details (last two pages of EU passport)
Car registration document	ü absolutely essential as you cannot get any of the other stuff without it. The most commonly asked for document.	ü absolutely essential as you cannot get any of the other stuff without it. The most commonly asked for document.	ü absolutely essential as you cannot get any of the other stuff without it. The most commonly asked for document.
Third party car insurance	ü you need to buy this at the border if not included in your green card (or UK insurance policy). We did this entering from Spain, but not from RIM so were uninsured for return journey. Nobody asked to see it.	ü you need to buy this soon after entry into RIM. We went to Nouadibhou and paid for one month for around €40. You must have this as you will be asked for it frequently at checkpoints.	ü maybe you do and maybe you don't need insurance in Mali. Nobody ever asked for it and there was nowhere to buy it at the border.
Comprehensive car insurance car insurance	û , but you can try back in the UK if you like. Would they pay up anyway? We got quote for £500 for one month, so decided to take our chances...and survived.	û , but you can try back in the UK if you like. Would they pay up anyway? We got quote for £500 for one month, so decided to take our chances...and survived.	û , but you can try back in the UK if you like. Would they pay up anyway? We got quote for £500 for one month, so decided to take our chances...and survived.
Money	ATM in most significant towns, even through Western Sahara	There is an ATM in Nouakchott, but only open when the bank is. Take euros and change anywhere...on the streets, in the hotel...do not take £ as the rate is absolutely terrible (about €1 = £1!!).	Rumour has it that there may be an ATM in Mali, if only somebody could remember where they put it. Take euros and change anywhere; the rate seems to be more or less the same regardless. Many hotels will take euros in payment.

The following fiche or form is invaluable to save time at police check points all through Western Sahara and Mauritania. There are check points at the entry and exit to most towns and at arbitrary points in between, so you will need plenty, we got through 30! I suggest printing double sided with this on one side and photocopy of passport (photo page) on the other. If there are two of you it still all fits on one (legible) A4 sheet.

When asked for next destination we just gave the next obvious tourist town along the road, but contrary to the guide books, they don't seem to mind if you say you are camping, just a little concerned for your well-being. They are often helpful if you want to confirm directions, availability of hotels, fuel etc. No bribes or "cadeaux" were asked for or given in Morocco, although you may be asked to give a lift to one of their mates. Mauritania, sometimes asked for small item, such as cigarettes, biro or something we had left on display. Mali, mostly they did not even get up off their seats in the shade...well, would you?

We filled in the form accurately trying to be as honest and precise as possible; with hindsight that was a waste, as they generally have no idea what you are talking about. As time went on, when questioned at road blocks, we tended to get more general, particularly about profession - "engineer, manager..." rather than "customer relationship management systems business analyst"! Having said that, I did overhear a conversation at the Morocco/RIM border with a Swiss chef who was being given the third degree because the immigration guy wanted him to explain why a chef knew naff all about sauces (he was a commis chef, but had not explained!).

First names Prénoms
Surname Nom
Sex Sexe
Home address Adresse
Country of residence Pays de résidence
Home telephone number Numéro de téléphone
Place of birth Lieu de naissance
Date of birth Date de naissance
Nationality Nationalité
Passport number Passeport no.
Place of issue Endroit d'issue
Date of issue Date de délivrance
Expiry date Date d’expiration
Profession Profession
Purpose of visit Motif du voyage
Vehicle registration Immatriculation du véhicule
Chassis number Chassis
Vehicle type Marque et type de véhicule
Temporary address Adresse provisoire
Origin Venant de
Destination Allant a